On September 3, at Denim After the Loom: From Stone to System, Adriano Goldschmied, the Godfather of Denim & Founder of Genious Group, joined Thomas Leary of Baytech-HMS and Sofia Strazzanti of Future Fashion Assembly for a cross-generational fireside chat on denim’s past, present, and future. Here are the main points of the discussion:
The Starting
“Finishing is a very complex thing in denim,” Adriano explained. “It involves machines, technology, chemicals, and most importantly, human knowledge.”
In the 1970s, he and Luigi Martelli shaped modern denim finishing, inspired by San Francisco’s hippies who personalized their jeans with patches and embroidery. Their turning point came in 1978 with stonewashing. That single innovation made worn-in denim a global style language.
The Realization
The early years of finishing, Adriano recalled, were “mentally free.” Designers experimented without thinking about the impact. But in the 1990s, that freedom met reality. While visiting China, Adriano witnessed a river stained bright blue by denim waste. His reaction was immediate: “My God, you have to do something.”
This moment sparked a shift. Responsibility entered the industry, with sustainability becoming a serious focus. Reducing water, chemicals, and energy use became part of the denim story.
Technology and Design in Harmony
“In the beginning, we didn’t like technology very much,” Adriano admitted. Designers feared it might stifle creativity. But over time, tools like lasers and HMS stones showed the opposite that innovation could expand possibilities.
HMS’ pumice-free stone became a breakthrough. Traditional pumice damages machines, produces toxic sludge, and consumes massive resources. HMS stones, by contrast, are durable and reusable. They cut pumice use by over 90%, from 600 tonnes per million garments to just 16, while keeping the same authentic look.
“There are so many ways you can interpret sustainability. For us, really, it’s durability that is a core component,” Adriano noted, echoing HMS’ philosophy.
Mass Adoption
New technologies often stumble when it comes to adoption. But HMS has pushed past that barrier. “The more people they can hear from someone else, the easier it is to get the ball rolling,” said Thomas.
That ball is rolling fast. HMS now partners with Levi’s, Kontoor, Inditex, and H&M. With strong compliance and certifications, their stone is also the only one rated green on the EIM grading system, easing concerns for brands and suppliers alike.
Guiding the Next Generation
Adriano believes the future rests in education. “You don’t change the world by yourself. You need to create teams all over the world, collaborating in changing processes and technology,” he said.
Designers, he argued, must learn not only fabric and fit but also the science of finishing and its impact. His advice to young talent: “After your first education, go and be an intern in a place where the craft is created.”
Digital Denim
Even now, Adriano keeps experimenting. His latest project explores digitally printed denim combined with HMS finishing. This approach could lower water use, reduce waste, and give brands more design flexibility. Early results show promise, with HMS proving durable even in this new frontier.
In a Nutshell
For Adriano, the lesson is simple: “Sustainability is not about marketing. For me, marketing is zero. What is important is what you do.”
For HMS, what they do is clear: durability, scale, and trust. From eliminating toxic sludge to partnering with global leaders, HMS is proving that denim can honor its past while building a responsible future.
Denim’s story is far from over. As Denim After the Loom showed, when creativity, technology, and responsibility come together, the industry doesn’t just evolve — it transforms.